Field Diary I
David Livingstone


Date of composition: 4 August 1865 - 31 March 1866
Repository: David Livingstone Centre, Blantyre, United Kingdom
Shelfmark: 1123
Clendennen & Cunningham number(s): Field Diaries, 014
Digital edition and date: Livingstone Online, 2017
Publisher: University of Maryland Libraries, College Park, MD, USA
Project ID: liv_000001
Critical encoding: Adrian S. Wisnicki, Megan Ward, Heather F. Ball, Christopher Lawrence, Kate Simpson, Angela Aliff, Ashanka Kumari
Encoding dates: 2014-04-29, 2014-05-01, 2014-05-03, 2014-05-05, 2014-05-07, 2014-05-08, 2014-05-09, 2014-05-10, 2014-05-13, 2014-05-14, 2014-05-15, 2014-05-18, 2014-05-27, 2014-06-03, 2014-08-21, 2014-10-31, 2014-11-22, 2015-12-15, 2016-12-06, 2017-11-20, 2017-11-21




0001

I


0002
0003

This contains a rough
diary of Livingstone's voyage
to Bombay from Marseilles
in 1865, his stay in Bombay,
5his arrival in Zanzibar &
[      ]{the} beginnings of his last
Journey - March 1866


It does not closely corres-
pond with Waller's "Last
10Journey"
& seems like rough
notes that were written
up carefully later; For
instance its [ ] well-known
passage in the Joys of
15Travel
appears on Jan-
uary 1866
as written
at Sea, whereas Waller
gives it under date
March 26th



0004

À Monsieur
Monsieur Cailliatte
Marsauceux
pres Dreux
5Eure et Loir




Monsier Calliatte
Marsauceux
Pres Dreux
10Eure et Loir



0005

À Madame Hocidi
du Docteur Livingstone




À Madame Hocidi
5chez M. Frédine de
Comisets


Le Havre
du Docteur Livingstone
Hotel des Deux Mondes
10        Paris


"Nous sommes à Marsauceux
Mercredi à onze heures
et demi -"


In answer to the above Mrs
15Hocede
came up from Havre
to Marsauceux & we met
her there - on 17th left Agnes
on 18th God bless her



0006

£1300 per ton
185 for ivory - The
largest price given




5

19th August 1865
reached Marseilles
at noon - slept
in a Hotel Louvre
et Paix
and on
1020th came on
board Massalia
P & O. steamer to
sail as soon as
the mails come
15on board -


Dined with M. Champlones
in Paris - a good geographer

0007
#Dreux where Agnes remains
in order to speak French is
a very old town - country
on chalk, a wine growing
5one - people well off - no
poor - mostly agricultural
in a small way - very
merry and careless
This region was that
10in which Julius Caezar
was when we wrote his
2d book of his com-
mentaries. The people
seem changed now
15for they are small &
dark instead of being
the big fair blue eyed
Gauls of old - The
burying place of the
20Bourbon family is
near Dreux - some
fine stained glass in it

0008
The country along which
we coast is sterile
in appearance but is
fertile - it looks stoney


5

21st August 1865


Beautiful sailing - The
Massilia goes at 12½ knots
over a silent sea, and it is
pleasantly warm
- Mr
10Maine
eminent as a
lawyer & writer on ancient
law is on board & Mr Tucker
also a lawyer - Mr Sterne
an American merchant
15well educated & clever -
and all are agreable --


22d Reached Malta
about 5 P.M. and found
quarantine regulations
20in full force - boats at
once surrounded us

0009
each having a man with
a yellow collar & yellow
flag - and all who had
come with us to Malta
5were to be put in quarantine
for 10 days - some cases
of cholera had appeared at
Marseilles. The ship's
papers were recieved in
10a box at the end of a
pole and tongs employed
to open & and shut it.


A man of war's crew
was said to have been
15put into quarantine
for one of the men having
touched a man of our
ship - too much defer-
ence is paid by our
20government to the
Maltese who are very
presuming.


0010

23d Aug. 1865. We were
prevented from coaling
till this morning. Then
left at midday - Dr
5Parkes
& family went
off to quarantine - a
Mrs Webb heard that her
husband was ill of
fever & unable to come
10near her before she
went into th Lazaretto
as we left we entered
into a thick fog which
seemed to be only near
15the island & not on it
We may hear of this at
a later date as associated
with an outburst
of cholera


20

Weather outside very
fine
we hope to get to

0011
Alexandria by Saturday at
noon & thence start at
once for Suez.


Mrs Tucker going up to
5Mahableswar at night
her horse went over a
precipice {in} the dark
and was jammed between
the{a} tree and the rock. both
10horse & rider saved.
This is surely Providen-
tial


26th Aug. 1865. arrived at
Alexandria about 4 P.M.
15and at once went on to-
wards Cairo. reached it
at 12.30 & stopped at
Shepherds Hotel - to start
at 9 A.M. Sunday morn-
20ing. went at 8 A.M.
to call on Mrs Lieder.


0012

Mr Lieder long a missionary
in Egypt died lately - & so
did an old companion
Miss Daniels - so she is left
5alone. Palgrave is at
Cairo among Abyssinian
merchants and the
worthless Burtonites alias
unprincipled - going to
10try & liberate Dr Cameron
& other missionaries in
Abyssinia - Mrs L. thinks
that Cameron was im-
-prudent only in presuming
15too much as a hunter
and thinking he had more
influence with the
king than he possessed
Mr Flad a very prudent
20& able missionary is one
of the captures. Miss
Whately
is coming out

0013
again in six weeks to
resume her labours
among the Mahometan
children = she retires in
5the hot season and
therein is wise. May a
blessing rest on her
labours.


An accident had happen
10ed on the railway & one
man killed on Saturday
night - this was the
reason we had to sleep
at Shepherds Hotel - the
15cholera cholera was very severe
on this line. Fifteen
engine drivers died of it
one was taken ill and
died before he could get
20to a station


0014

28th Aug. 1865. Went
on board the "Benares"
and set sail this morning
with a fine breeze down
5the Red Sea. -


29th at noon we were
220 miles from Suez
and 1050 from Aden
a nice breeze keeps us
10pleasant & steady
Reading Palgrave
very ambitious in
his style


30th noon Distance
15run 218 miles -
From Aden 832 miles
A fine breeze astern
helps us on & cools us


0015
{figure}
0016

31 August 1865
Distance run today
219 miles - 614 from
Aden - warmer
5but wind still keeping
up
-


1st Septr 1865 - 206
miles
distance run
went down to stoke hole
10where Somalis are
employed ½ an hour
at a time - thermom
eter in stoke hole at
roof 150° Fahr
15yesterday 163° - Engine
room 109 - yesterday
110°


0017

3d Septr 1865 Visited
Aden - and went
with Col. Merryweather
to the old Tanks from
5which the town is
supplied = They are built
in a gully & across it
the workmanship
solid & prodigious -
10a few trees are planted
It is mentioned by
Balthazar an old
Portuguese who called
there 300 years ago
15that Aden was a
perfect garden - the
old tanks held more
than the present -
The town is built
20over many of them


two Parsees & a

0018
Mahometan have in
company cleared out
one & selling 100 gallons
for 1 Rupee realize
5about 25 per cent
on the outlay - People
have increased to 30,000
and are crowding in
fast from starvation
10in the country caused
by Murrain. Dined
with Col. Merryweather
& Col. Woolcombe &
then sailed at nine
15P M


Prodigious quantities
of fish in Gulph of
Aden
- I wonder that
no fisheries have
20been established

0019
a sudden lowering of
Temp. took place in
the sea as soon as
we came out of the
5Red Sea to Gulph of
Aden
. The bath made
us start from its
coldness. query a
current from south
10brought to surface - ?


5th Sept 1865


Still in Gulph of
Aden
= 1570 miles
from Bombay - went
15212 miles -


6th Septr when we
got out of Gulph of
Aden
came to southern
swell & wind - going
20well & cool - 254 miles


0020

The Roman Emperors
looked on Christianity
as politically subversive
and morally abominable
5As many of ourselves
do Mormonism &
our rulers do the
Jesuits. Christianity
is still looked on
10as a new spirit
likely to act as a
dissolvent of Eastern
systems. It produces
an instinctive
15shrinking, and
repugnance - Asiatic
rulers have an
instinctive prescience
of the result & naturally
20shrink from

0021
closer contact with
Western commerce &
Christianity which
combined will inevitably
5modify the whole
structure of society


No oriental com-
prehends the meaning
of benefitting the people -
10the notion of promoting
the welfare of a nation
is scouted as a matter
of course " - and we are
always supposed to be
15following own{our} so{own}
ends in all we do -




[                ]

0022

7 Septr 1865 Distance
run 235 miles. Flying
fish are caught by
nets held behind a
5light - The French
soldiers were shockingly
ill treated by their own
officers on board our
transport ships, but
10no complaint made -
thrown overboard
without any ceremony
not even sewn up
in great coats - These
15were usually stolen
ere they were dead -


8{9}th 226 miles & we are
now 352 miles from
Bombay - light breeze
20and         some     sea


0023

A foreign people is not to
be understood in a short
or hurried visit - nor indeed
to be appreciated by the
5oldest inhabitant, unless
he will consent to
waive all prejudice & live
as one of themselves -
Difficult to realize the
10true aspect of the people
- learn to respect their
hearts -


Quickness of apprehension
a ready wit & retentive
15memory
cruel old platitudes
about governing orientals
by fear - the "stick" -
"vigour" They are the
20same as free born Instinct

0024
not long ago French &
Germans were regarded
as we now regard "niggers
& Egyptians" - our
5island belt of prejudice
with better knowledge
we learn that black &
white are men of like
passions with our
10-selves-


Treat savages as you
would countrymen
remembering that
you lose nothing
15by the act & they gain
all -


little pet tucked her
legs under her & ate daint
                                            ily

0025
such a darling of sweet
pure beauty -
slave is a term of
affection -"slave whom
5he loved"


Genuine sympathy
with human beings
obliterates the distinctions
of race & clime rank
10& religion & even of
intellect.




It is evidence of brutal
vulgarity of mind to
15treat all natives as "niggers"
Avoid this unhappy
form of slang & without
falling into unreal sentiment
endeavour to return to that
20chivalry which regards with
especial forbearance & con
sideration the inferior & helpless


0026

#a man at Rio de Janero
catching a rope was
bit by a sea snake
which{and} shewed sym-
5-ptoms of poisons
This case was men-
-tioned by Captain White
of the Benares as
having come under
10his own personal
observation


[                ]

0027

10th Septr 1865
Divine service this
morning at 10-30
After inspection
5all attended - We are
within 120 miles of
Bombay - We have
now been 4 Sundays
on board from
10Marseilles: viz. - one
at Marseilles - one
crossing Desert -
one at Aden & thus
y which we reach
15Bombay at about
4 A. M. Monday


0028

Chaplain Holberton
        Brigade Major

River side
          Kirkee


5

13th start for Nassuck
at 8 A M & reach
4 - 30. Mr ^ Rev W. Prxel




10

11th Septr 1865
Arrived at Bombay
at 4 A M - Went
to House of Mr
G M Stewart
on
15Kambala hill
visited Governor

0029
in forenoon. He
recommends a
visit to Nassuck
to see a school of
5Africans there to
select men for
journey - dine
with him tomorrow
evening & then go
10Wednesday morning
up country -


12th


went to Pareill to
residence of the Governor
15offered a room &
then to dine in the
evening - sat beside

0030
Mr Chisolme Anstey -
who is rather notorious
in Bombay - a disciple
of Daniel O'Connell -


5

14th Went up to
Nassick to see if any
of the Africans there
would suit me.
Recieved by Major
10Houghton
very kindly


15th Septr As the
reamination of the
school by the Bishop
of Bombay
. children
15did very well indeed
sang beautifully
an African com
poses tunes and

0031
has made about 25
with songs in his
own language - The
tongue of Londa -
5told the young men
that it was not
play they were going
to but work, and
they had better think
10about it for some
time before giving an
answer - Two volun
-teered at once - but I
requested them to
15pause -


16th came down to
Bombay - very many
of the plants seem

0032
identical with those in
Africa -- saw the
ghants clearly and they
are very fine and the
5jungle is very like
what we have near
Kolobeng & elsewhere
Teak trees - Euphorbias
acacias & palmyras
10bring back African
scenery vividly -


17th Septr 1865
Went to Fort to settle
affairs - four of
15my men have died
climate disagrees with
them - Chuma &
Wikotane have done
very well at Bombay
20under Dr Wilson


0033

Sunday 18th Septr 1865
went to Scotch church
under Mr Boyd & to the
English church in the
5evening -


19th came up to Guny-
skind
- residence of Sir
Bartle Frere
the Governor
Went after dinner to
10an entertainment given
by the Officers - Private
theatricals very well
performed - Supped with
Col. Foster - Home at
152 in the morning -


20th Sleep in quarters
of staff of Governor,
go over to Gunyskind to
meals -


0034

20th Septr 1865


After breakfast Governor
told me that Major Clarke
had spoken to Officers
5& men of the Marine
Battallion & found
them very willing to
go - He says many
of them have been
10wrecked & kept at
places where they have
been obliged to rough it
much and he will
ensure their pay &
15pensions - They are
accustomed to making
packs for beasts of
burden -

0035
spoke of buffaloes as
able to bear bite of the
tsetse - Thought favourably
of it - He also said
5that any Africans &
myself wish to send
of one tribe he would
see to their expenses
being paid


10

very pleasant weather
up here


22 Septr 1865


Visited a cave
temple and walked
15to Holkar's bridge
Read Duffy's
history of Kirkee
battle
-


0036

#Mr Dalzell gardener
wished seeds of
mosokoso - and
Buarze {figure} send them


5



Invited to lecture
at United service
institution - Mutiny
medals distributed
10A fakeer seen in
Scinde came to
tell Sir Bartle
that the last of
the Imams would
15soon appear -


0037
a woman washed
her face - Political
officer still en-
quiring into the
5case when he
left Oude -
men put on a
new coat over
the old & his age
10is asked by how
many coats has
he?


[                ]

0038

25 Septr 1865 - Came
down to Bombay
saw Mr Stearn's about
calico & buffaloes
5Paid Govr 609 Rupees
3 annas for repairs
of steamer & keep of
men - Mr Hoggan, an
engineer volunteers to
10go with me - I decline -
I go to Lady Nyassa
to shew her to Captain
Blackmore
with a
view to advertisement
15for sale -


She is advertized twice
a week. Two offers
Mr Tucker spoke of
a company buying her


0039

29th Went up again to
Poonah after spending
a week in Bombay
and on 3d Oct. gave
5a lecture in the United
Service Institution
to a crowd - Governor
and bishop present
the latter introduced
10me & voted thanks
afterwards -


Visted a Sirdar or
native gentleman
in Poonah with the
15Governor - garlands
of flowers hung
round or necks
wands of Do in hands
other of Roses - &c.

0040
stairs so narrow
only one person can
ascend - for defence
in lawless times -


5

5th Octr 1865


Came down to
Bombay - gave
a lecture in Town
Hall to a crowd who
10gave three cheers
and subscribed
some thousands of
Rupees to help -


17th Sultan gave
15me an order to
his captain to carry
12 buffaloes for
me to Zanzibar


0041

14 men of Marine
Battalion volunteered
to go - Men drew back
and there 14 volunteered
5after hearing that we
had carriage pro-
vided for their luggage
order - goods -
provisions - blankets
10boots -


Visited Sultan several
times - very gracious
which I owe to Sir
Bartle Frere
shewing
15me so much
attention - and calling
me his Moushee


0042

22d Octr went to
Scotch Church in
morning - spent
some time with
5Dr Wilson Then
go back to Mr
Stewart
to lodge




25 Shipped 14
10buffaloes and two
calves on board
the Gazelle - bought
iron tanks for their
water - Hay supplied
15by commissariat
at instance of the
Governor - The
Sultan changes his
mind about sailing

0043
and may not leave
for some days yet -
Commissariat is
getting saddles made


5

#Phenembe is name
of Dr Peters "Caia"
Lizard = It eats chickens
& mice - Nganye is
10the Ajawa & Manganja
name for same
animal = Kaia
falls during rains -




15

[In] an inscription given -
by Cosmas the Adulike
inscription copied in
A.D. 545 Ptolemy the
Great
is made to say
20that "he invaded Asia
with his land & sea forces

0044
#"and with elephants
from the country of the
Troglodites & Ethiopians.
This body of Elephants
5was found collected out
of those countries by his
father and himself and
brought into Egypt and
tamed for the service
10of war. with these forces
Ptolemy advanced -
into Asia, reduced all
his country on this side
the Euphrates xxxxx
15In this Expedition having
captured also manyy
Indian elephants
and subjectingall the
princes to his obed
20ience he crossed to
Euphrates, entered"

0045
#Mesopotamia &c"
Vincent's Ancient Commerce
II pp-538"




5

#Leave articles & retire.
ancient way of trading
in gold - Do Do




1st Novr 1865 We have
10had heavy rains for some
days
- The Captain of the
Gazelle rather disobliging
about the buffaloes -
wont help my men - is
15a drunken Mahometan
Mahomet Ali Durt.
got letters from Mr Price
about boys - From Sir
Roderick
about Bakers
20Lake
- He wishes me to
hasten on to Tanganyika
2 Marines come daily &
act as orderlies -


0046

4 Novr 1865 Went
up with Mr Tracey to
the Mountain sanatorium
Mattaran which has
5most gorgeous scenery
remained with Mr
Hammay
on monday
& returned to Bombay
on the morning of the
107th.


On 9th went to Surat
and remained overnight
at Rev Montgomery's
of Irish Presbyterian
15Mission - Saw the old
tombs of English mag
nates of former days
they are very grand -
imitations of Mahometans


0047

10th On to Mr Taylors
at Borsad - reached
him by bullock cart
at ₑ⁄₄ to 12 at night
5remained net day
and on 12th went on
to Ahmedabad - country
identical with many
parts of Tropical
10Africa
- Take away
hedgerows which are
of African Euphorbias
and no imagination
is needed to fancy one
15-self on the other side of
Indian Ocean - Ruins
very fine - Went out
on 13th to service at
native christian village


0048

The expression of
countenance of women
very pleasant as com
-pared with the heathen -
5one motherly person
did not like to see us
go away fasting &
brought a draught of
milk for me -


10

Mrs Oliphant the collectors
wife is a daughter of
my friend Genl Alex
-ander
- She was absent


14 Novr 1865


15

Returned to Bombay
in one day a distance
of 300 miles - Railway
very straight & level
not a tunnel in it
20all - Several large
bridges built on

0049
iron tubes screwed
into the mud - The
Narbudda at Breach
₃⁄₄ of a mile - The
5bridges are very
elegant & high -


Caste the result in a
measure of having
been yielded to by the
10English - When the
natives found that
they were believed in
capable by caste rules
of performing certain
15duties they added to
the regulations -


A banker seen in a
third class carriage
Love of money stronge
20than love of caste


0050

In a ship a Sudrah may
cook for them - a bath
is taken by throwing
a stone in water - a
5vicarious ablution
and then the mark is
put on the ˄ forehead as
emblematic of purifica
tion -


10

A woman taken in
a palankin & screened
into carriage was
seen to take a bundle
of dirty clothes on her
15back when leaving
it -


Hear of Rae's death
"Leave his sins to his
saviour
" is the line
20we must follow
a sad end enough


0051

14 Novr 1863 returned
in one day to Bombay
and lived in Mr Stearn's
house Malabar Hill -
5No news of importance
had come -


About 20th H M S Severn
came and the Commodore
told me that I had to go in
10the Vigilant and she would
be here in about a
month - no help for it
Recieved from Asiatic
Society Rupees (6450) about
15£645 - very handsome
contribution Resolve
to dedicate it to careful
commerce & place it
at Ritchie Stewart & Cos
20at 6 percent interest
to be given to any feasible
committee for that

0052
purpose -


24th Sailed to Hog island
visited caves of
Elephanta
about 900
5years old - My expectations
had been over excited
Recieved a number
of articles for journey
from Authorties here


10

5th Decr waiting
for M. "Thule" being
ready as I am to go
in her - a guest of
the Government -
15negotiating sale
of Lady Nyassa
Mr Tucker failed
to get up a company

0053
to purchase her - dined
in company with
Mr Justice Anstey -
has a fund of anecdote
5admired O'Connel -


8th Decr /65 - visited the
Rock Temples of
Kanera - Budhist
and one is very fine
10like saloon of News
tead Abbey
- a row
of pillars runs down
each side some carved
at top with elephants
15many figures of Budh
with Hindoo gods
under him


7th Shocked by the sudden
death of Mrs Holberton


0054

8 Decr 1865






#

Since my return
to Bombay I have
5noticed that my men
from the Zambesi
have lost the African
& emit the Indian
odour - They com-
10plain of weakness






Scinde is notable
for darkening the
complexion - Bombay
15whitens it - Devon
shire
- darkens more
than most places






Captain Osborne
20offers to take me
up to Nagpore free
of expense -


0055

[#] 10th Decr 1865 Chuma
and Wikatani were
baptized this morning
by Dr Wilson - John W -
5& James Chuma - trust they
will be followers of
Christ in truth -


11th Recieved an
anonymous note
10from "African Asylum"
complaining of un-
kindness - sent it to
Mr Price - It shews
ingratitude


15

12th Went to Commodore
he shewed me his
order to East Coast
Captains to assist
me as much as they
20could


0056

Declined Captain
Osborne
s very
kind invitation
to go up country
5with him -


Went to observatory
about 2 chrono-
meters to be sent
home by H. M. S.
10Severn


18th Decr 1865.
Went on board the
Thule and find
her a very fine
15vessel with
ample cabin
accommodation


0057

22 Decr 1865. Sold
the Lady Nyassa for
£2300 to Rajah of
Bhownugger{ree}
-
5the Government have
given me the honour
of formally presenting
the Thule to the Sultan
of Zanzibar
- This is
10to shew the consideration
in which I am held &
will aid me with the
Arabs = It is very kind
in the Governor so to
15arrange the matter -
A Colonel would have
been sent had the
commission not been
given to me


0058

26th Decr 1865 =
Tiffin on board the
"Windsor Castle." after
service at the Cathedral
5yesterday - Lord Edward
Seymour
with whom
I went to Elephanta
caves
after going with
Sir Bartle Frere to the
10South Maratha country
went to hunt bears -
Placed above a bear
cave he shot one of
two cubs which first
15came out. Then the
mother followed & he
retiring fell - The beast
gave him one of the
tremendous bites on the
20inside of the thigh which
the brutes can give &
went on - Two days
elapsed ere medical

0059
assistance could be
brought. Then amputation
and death followed -
an untimely end for a
5hopeful young man
who came to learn that
knowledge of India not
easily found in books -
Pity the poor father &
10mother & sisters if he
has any -


4th January 1866 -
embarked on board
the Thule going to
15Zanzibar as a pre-
-sent to the Sultan - the
mules were not on
board so we had to
wait till the morning
20of the 5th before

0060
sailing - Two Seedies
were by accident
knocked overboard
but were picked up -
5weather fine - but
winds light


16 January 1866 Had a
squall this morning
mules find it difficult
10to stand on account of
rolling of vessel - We
are more than half
way now to Zanzibar


19th began to steam
15on 17th on account
of want of wind -
It is now dead calm


[                ]

0061

When one travels
with the specific object
in view of ameliorating
the benighted natives of
5Africa every act becomes
enobled - While exchanging
the customary civilities -
Recieving a nights shelter
- purchasing food for
10the party - asking for
information - or giving
answers to the African's
polite enquiries as to the
objects of the travelers - We
15begin to spread inform
-ation respecting that people
by whose agency their
hand will yet be freed
from the cursed slave trade
20The mere animal pleasure
Travelling is very great

0062
the elasticity of muscle
imparted by brisk exercise
fresh & healthy blood
circulates through the
5brain - the eye is clear
the step firm and the
days exertion has been
enough to make repose
thoroughly enjoyable -
10We have always the
influence of remote
chances of danger either
from men or wild
beasts - Our sympathies
15are drawn out to our
humble hardy com-
panions by a com-
munity of interests
and perils - and
20makes us all friends indeed

0063
the mind meanwhile
is made more self
reliant - confident in
resources with greater
5presence of mind -


The body & limbs become
well knit - the muscles
loose{lose} all their fat & are
as hard as a board - the
10countenance bronzed
no dyspepsia-


The sweat of ones brow
is no longer a curse
when one works for
15God - It is converted
into a blessing - It is a
tonic to the system - The
charm of repose can
only be known after
20severe exertion


0064

24th January 1866 = After
several days of very light
winds we have a breeze today
but she does not go quick
-
5A shark bit the revolving vane
of the Patent log several days
ago and on 22d repeated
the bite and left several
pieces of the enamel of his
10teeth indented in the brass
We caught several dolphins
yesterday - the dorsal fin
is prolonged & large on to the
nose - This gives him great
15power in turning his head
& mouth to catch the fishes
All the fishes in their stom
achs were partially con
sumed though they could
20not have been long in
The gastric juice is very
strong {figure} found
inside & of this size


0065

25 January 1866. a good
wind today
and vessel
going slowly never
-the-less


26 get up steam in the
Afternoon -


28th Sunday came into
Zanzibar harbour this
10afternoon - all the Europe
-ans off on a picknick -
Opened mail bags in order
to see that man of war
letters might not be
15kept from Officers &
men of the "Vigilant" by
the picknick affair - called
at Vigilant


29th Went to call on
20Sultan in accordance
with request for a
private interview
which sent in the evening
we were recieved by a

0066
gaurd - A band at the
bottom of stairs struck
up the "Queen's Anthem"
when we shook hands
5with his Highness - We
told him that I was com-
missioned to deliver the
Thule as a present from
the Bombay Govern-
10-ment but a few days
were required to clean
& repair her. Then we
should get up a trial
trip if he would come
15on board - to this he
assented - on drinking
coffee & sherbet we came
away & the band struck
up the "British Grenadiers"
20called on Mr Shultz
acting for Dr Seward
I did not accept his

0067
mediation as political
agent because he is a
foreigner =


He says Baron van
5der Decken
is murdered
His bloody clothes were seen
by some Mahometans
who were allowed to
escape - Dr Link ran into
10the water and tried to escape
but was slain - They
spared one light coloured
man on his repeating
part of the Koran - (Dr
15Seward
is at Seyschelles)
The Baron was said not
to be cautious and rather
liked to drive all before
him - Poor fellow an
20untimely end - the river
is said to wind so much
at times as scarcely to
allow a long steamer to
go up - He went 300 miles about


0068

19th February 1866 -
Captain Brebner left in
the Nadir Shah at noon
Sultan offered a money
5present through Sheikh
Sulieman
which was
decidedly declined -


20th This morning
the Sultan goes out
10to buy the Thule =


22d He sent some one
else - He seems too feeble
& irresolute to do anything
He is like all Easterns
15profuse of promises


8th March. Sultan
sent Thule over to
examine a new bay
nearly opposite to
20this and Sheikh
Sulieman
tells us

0069
that he intends to build
a custom House there
and get his way at
the spot = They have
5difficulties when it is
embarked elsewhere
Bought two camels
one for 20 the for 32
dollars


10[10th]

Bought another camel
and a white Donkey
of Muscat


case of a man a
Monyar who ran
15away from this &
was sold at Muscat
his Zanzibar owner
getting information
thereof sent an order
20to sell him - He was
taken to Calcutta &

0070
becoming sick was
deserted by his master
there - when he got
out of hospital sailed
5in P. & O ships for six
years - then coming
back worked to Fraeser
& co for 18 months but
was again paid sold
10to Captain Abdullah
2 months ago - Sultan
says he purchased him
from said Abdullah
& will give him over
15to Consul but will
not say he has done
wrong


[                ]

0071

19th March 1866 - sailed
from Zanzibar on
board H M -S Penguin
Lieutt Garforth - with
5a dhow having camels
mules donkies &
buffaloes on board -
Paid 180 dollars for it
Reached Rovuma
10bay
on 22d and
anchored in 5 fathoms
went up left bank &
examined gullies to
see if camels can
15cross them - very
difficult, so told the
master of the dhow
to go up along right
bank which always

0072
was deep - on 23d he
warped up some dis-
tance - We then went
to examine further up
5on left bank & foun
it utterly impracticable
from thickness of
jungle & Mangrove
swamps full of
10gullies & roots plant
in excessively stick
mud - The dhow went
up about a mile on
the right bank and
15grounded while we
were examining
the left bank and
getting a Hippopotamus
calf shot by Mr Fan[ ]

0073
in one of the small gullies
Went over to dhow
& found she had grounded
and could proceed
5no further - Went in-
land from dhow
& found mangroves
quite as bad as other
side roots sticky
10mud & gullies without
end - s{T}hought of
landing at point
where Mr May observed
and then wading the
15camels up on the
sands in river
but it occurred to
me that if that should
fail we should be
20fairly jammed

0074
and obliged to leave
camels altogether -
went to Penguin &
Lieutt Garforth agreed
5that it would be
better to go to Kilwa
Captain of Dhow
strongly recom-
-mended Mikindany
10in which bay there is
a fine harbour calle
Pemba completely
shut in by land -
on west side the
15seaface rises up at
once from the water
to about 200 feet
the slope down being
clothed in rich

0075
green foliage very
pleasant to behold -
went over to sirkar
of Synd Majid - we
5were landed on N.
point of the gap in
got out camels &
hired a house - then
Penguin left us
10the Lieutt behaved
most kindly &
liberally


Kalane name of man
to whom I am to pay
15rent
of 4 dollars a
month = the hill John
is the landmark in
making the harbour



0076

28th March 1866
The Arab who acts as
soldier here for the
Sultan came today
5with a man who is
said to know all the
Interior - and who
was offered if I shoul
pay him handsome-
10ly beforehand to be
a sort of guide - an
ill looking fellow
I replied that I wante
porters and if these
15could not be had
I would go on
with the men I
had - After a

0077
long talk we decided
nothing - They have
no cattle here nor
at Magaa{ao} which is
5said to be six hours
North of this - all
sadl{d}les finished


30 March 1866 - Plenty
of game in country
10adjacent but no
Tsetse - They have not
tried cattle - having
been here only five
or six years here
15They know the Tsetse
on Rovuma -


We have several
times been asked by
the half-caste Arabs

0078
for brandy which the
drink in secret but
may have not made it
an article of commerce
5as we have done on
the West Coast -
no carriers to be had
Sirkar will give two
men to shew road =
10refuse rent of house
for things we leave
behind


[31st]

Excercising camels
two very stubborn
15ruin was a mosque


[                ]



0079
5 bags of beads
5 boxes instruments
    books clothes -
1 bag bedding
51 box soap 1 Do Tea -
15 bales cloth #camels
1 box preserved meats
1 bag coffee -
1 box candles
107 boxes ammunition
15 small bales cloth
1 sugar - cooking utensil



Camels carry all the
15bales -




3 bags clothes -
4 instruments
1 medicine box
201 ammunition


0080
chaza = oyster
makararu another shellfish
eaten - good pia

John = {figure} the direction
5hill W N W of entrance

        Distances
Makonde
Kuaridelwi = 2 Kuaridea
[1] Jantulo
10 [3] Ligongonda
Lehuma

Mgg{a}o is said to only
six hours north
of Kindany harbour


15 [                ]

0081
{figure}
0082
Paid Antonio Rs 14 -
  soap                 Rs 4
candles & serge £5-3-8

advanced to Johanna
5men by Captain Garforth
  £29-4 & repaid by me

        15{0} R. Ghee at Kindan
advanced Wikatn{d}ani 4/
for gun mending

10 [                ]

0083
mill - 2
Big beads 500 2 50
Buffalo house 35
soap - 1 box 2.50

5

1100 = 12
1112 = 18
  138 - 63


101250      81 = 1291 = 31
26[  ]{89} = 8254 Rs

on second coffe 6
account sugar 3.50
R 2776-5 Brandy 11      
15men 20

Koroje bin
Volamadasa


0084
2 frasilah beads [  ]
  26.75
20 pieces cloth 46.25
20 Do 46.25
520 Kaniki 46.25
20 Do 28.50
samesame 5¼ 70.25
Golaleia 5¼ 5{6}1.69
unduo24.16
10Langĩo 5¼ 49.88
Powder - 4.
Balls     63
2 guns 6


15Buggalo 100
food 86.57
presents 22.50
porters   -- 200
food of Do   7

0085
{figure}
[                ]


0086
Colobus Guereza = Tippet monkey
the Polume - or Mbega of E As{f}rica



Tangoe = Honey bird
5  Sakirdornis melanota = black
backed goose

{figure}

Leave with Dr Seward
one hundred Pounds
10£100 - to send buffaloes
& other matters
12 March 1866 =




Kerje to send 300 lbs
15beads - 500 egg beads
& 80 pieces cloth
to Thani bin Suelum
at Ujiji - Then his Sepoy
to come back to Said bin
20Salem
at Unyembe



0087
{figure}
cousins are Bari
& not marrigiable



5neiche{es} not marriagi
able
= Bokaru

Bariao Do Do
Nkamoane
10grandneices Do D
mbui{e}a meje{u}ala may
marry or be married
but the blood relation
ship is finished

15 [                ]


0088

a large peace & opposite
shore just visible in a
clear day - Salim bin
Abdullah
was his Arab
5guide thither - Mafite are
there = Kingomanga
carried him in a cot
His village is Mamemba
Roscher left goods with
10Likoomboo a chief at
Rovuma & was going
for them -


Mukokota name of
murderer


0089

Dr Roscher was killed
at a village called
Kisoongoona 3 days [      ]{to}
the North East of Lake
5Nyassa
- 19th Novr reached L.
He remained at Nussewa
on the borders of the Lake
nearly 4 months - The
chief is Makawa - to
10him Roscher's servant
returned - He gave an
escort to the district
chief Kingomanga ^ a mogace 4
days
from the Lake
15who went with 50 followers
Kingomanga & Makawa
sent all the goods &
murderers to Kilwa
Roscher lodged in
20Marvole's house at
Nussewa


0090
Amoda 10 Feby Rs 10
Suzi         Do          Rs 10
being February & ½ March

Juma & Wikatani 1 R. each
5Gave Chitko & Dungudza
12 days provisions &
1 Rupee passage to
Mosambique 11 Feby /66

Amoda         R 1 + 1
10Suzi for Dobi       R 1
Suzi 4 [ ] for        1 musket
Suzi for stealing to pay
10 Rupees -

Amoda 1 yd. - 1 Shilling
15Suzi blue jumper 6/
eight Johanna men
Jumpers                 6/

Nassick boys each 6/
Paid fine by Johanna man   2/

0091
Paid to Theodor Schulby [  ]
at Zanzibar £27-4
for keep of buffaloes
at Zanzibar

510th Feby 1866
Paid Havildar for 3 days
for grass to Do & mules R 2

for other five{six} days Rs 3
for feed of cattle   R 5

10 [                ]

{figure}


0092

Hamid bin Sulayyam
arab of the Dhow on Lake
Tanganyika




5

Khamis bin Juma another
who knew him well but
was East of Lake
Uvira
last point of Arabs N.
S. of Lake is land of Marunga


10

Ubwari island
Uvinza salt comes from
Wabembe = man eaters
Uvira - stalwart sons of
15Sultan Maruta





0093
Morofi = sawfish is said
to eat Mabande a spears
of grass growing in wet
places = saws it through

5Chinyessi = electric fish
eats Makamba or craw
fish.

Dōwe = Mchura or its
own tail which grows again -

10Colour of Dolphin fins
bright blue - body light
green - causes fascin-
-ation in flying fish
as cobra's hood does
15a fish if once it comes
in its sphere cannot
fly scarcely

zikombo other side or
country

0094

26 Decr 1865 Sent off
to ship by Dubash


10 Loads of calico
8 ---     of coloured and
5                woolen cloths

18 boxes provisions


36 in all



1010{1} bags of beads sent
3 --     shot -
6 boxes                29th



{figure}
0095
No 3 remains
2d N 1 goes - medium
box -
Revolver
essence of beef - compas

5Left with Mr Francis
3 tin boxes (clothing)
1 wooden box
(Microscope)

1 medicine box
101 box magic Lantern
11 saws
4 axes
1 wooden box - books





15{figure}
0096
No 2 to go to Zanzibar
travelling clothes
& some books - mbane
inside -

5No 1 - Hammock
of Ms Alington -
6
s{c}hecked shirts

Mosquito curtains
needles looking glasses
10coloured woolen 4
[4] roles -
knives - silver
spoons -
looking
glasses -
iron spoons
1 towel = Preseved tin kirnes
15-files
-
Lancaster gun &
powder horn -
shot belt
shells -- bullet moulds
Foolscap paper = piece of
red striped stuff =
shawl

0097
No 4 box to be left
at Ms Tracey's contains
Uniform - black dress
coat & Trowsers - New
5blue coat & checkd
trowsers -
1 pr boots

No 5 contains -
Uniform hat - paper
flannel & other shirts
10stockings - boots 1 pr
microscope box

0098

8th Paid Livery Company
for buggy hire R. 24




Psylli of Strabo whose
5bodies were supposed
to have antidote to poison
of serpents


In India = Saadi




10        Ben Habibs Journal
mentions Umarungu
R.
flowing into S. End of
Lake = He went to Peto -

Karambo = Makunga
15Karunguesi
=

    Charéka name of Cazembe
R. Ragira flows past
Katanga & joins Luapula

country Buira =
20Makololo Ujenje

0099

Speke says page 165 of
His Journal - On starting
to the rescue, my companion
complained of the shock
5his nerves recieved since
the Somali encounter,
and this appeared to
affect him during the
whole of this journey"
10he evinces an evident
dislike to Burton and
did not hesitate to call
him a coward, but this
does not justify Speke
15in stealing a march on
Burton by publication
of his Journal after
promising not so to do


                                        DL


20

Nsango Divination


0100
native measures
Gora = 15 cloths of 4 cubits each
(Kinike Indigo dyed stuff)
Sahari = Dubuani &c
5Barsate tablecloths of various
colours

cloth of 4 cubits = a Shukka
Dhote = piece of 12 fathoms{feet}
or 8 cubits = 8 + 18 = 16{4}4
10= to 12 feet or 6{4} yards
= 2 fathoms

Kitindi = brass rings

"To save repetition, I
may as well mention thatthe
15fact that neither Captain
Burton
nor myself were
able to converse in any
African language until
we were close to the coast on
20the return Journey -" foot
note page 199 Speke's Journal


0101

4{7} Novr


Paid for 800 pages
of map blanks 10 Rs 8



5Drew to self 20 Rupees


Paid for calico 259-8
Rupees - to Nicol & Co

2 Decr To Do R 260
10--         --                          5R34
To Nicol & Co calico   500 Rs
Sundries       ----             10
-                         ----           10
-                         ----           10
15self -                                   24
    watches repair         19
Paid to ColMajor Muler
for shoes 24 pai R 120

at 5 R per pair
20for Tin                    R: 5
Dec 8th Drew Currt 12100 R
Sundries         R 46-13 2

0102
{figure}
0103
{figure}
0104
1st Octr
Suzi 12 Rupees
Amoda 12 Do
Manta - 30
5

16th
Mantu 15 R.
Dungodza 10


10to self             --- 20
washing 10


Amoda 55
Monita 5 5
15

Amoda 6

0105

27 Sepr 1865


Paid Wikatani & Chuma
2 months & a half - 12-3 or
Rs 25 ---
5+




{figure}


{figure}
0106
        Fare to Paris #£ 5 3 4
£ 2 11 8
        Luggage --- £ 1 8 6
£ 4 0 2
5self         £ 0-5 = £ 3-5-0
Marseilles £ 4-
Hotel Paris - £ 2 8
& Marseilles £ 1 10
20 Aug £ 11 30
10medicine box



#26th Sept-r Paid on
my own private acct-
for painting steamer
15food for men & to the
Bombay Government
609-3 Rupees = and
wages of men
500 Rupees -/ 100 Rupees 289 Sepr


0107

May 9th 1865 / £ 121 17
Paid to Macdougall &co
clothing         £ 11 18
29 May to
5Mr Joseph Starkey
for caps & belt - £ 3 14 6
20 Aug. [ ]           £ 11 3   
                                £ 148 2 76

10Eitre Luggage
to Bombay £     9-14-9
stewards fees £ 1 10
Cairo Hotel            16
Suez Hotel               8 6
15                        £ 160 12 9
To Mr Young   105          
for clothing £ 265 12 9
Magic Lanter
watches &c


0108

9th August 1865
To P & O Company
for passage from
Marseilles to
5Bombay         £ 82-10
Stereoscope =       12
11th August
Bought of John Searle
one Leathern trunk
10for Journey         £3-5
Stationary -         £ 11-
Drew for
Journey through
France & to Bombay £ 25-



15Expenses             £ 121-17


0109
4 August 1865 Mem.
[to] Bind Obsn books
candles - Lantern
sextant stand
5watch - Bombay
Dentist =
[sell] steamer - compass &
ruler -
Beads string
Tea = coffee - sugar
10preserved meats - sardines
Tarpauling -
kettle. saucepan -
Frying pan -
Flour
0110
0111
{figure}
0112
0113