Field Diary V
David Livingstone


Date of composition: 5 September - 23 October 1866
Repository: David Livingstone Centre, Blantyre, United Kingdom
Shelfmark: 1126
Clendennen & Cunningham number(s): Field Diaries, 018
Digital edition and date: Livingstone Online, 2017
Publisher: University of Maryland Libraries, College Park, MD, USA
Project ID: liv_000005
Critical encoding: Adrian S. Wisnicki, Megan Ward, Heather F. Ball, Christopher Lawrence, Anne Martin, Kate Simpson, Ashanka Kumari, Samantha Fitch, Erin Cheatham
Encoding dates: 2014-10-25, 2014-10-26, 2014-11-01, 2014-11-07, 2014-11-10, 2014-11-16, 2014-11-19, 2014-11-22, 2014-11-29, 2014-12-01, 2014-12-21, 2014-12-29, 2015-01-05, 2015-01-06, 2015-01-07, 2015-01-14, 2015-02-01, 2015-02-14, 2015-12-15, 2016-12-06, 2017-11-20, 2017-11-21




0001
0002
0003

No V




[      ]one


5

There is no very close
correspondence between
these notes and the "Last
Journey"
. Dates even, at
10time, differ. There
is a great deal more
in the book than in
the notes, & visa
versa to a less degree,
15but nothing of importance


at the "back end"
are some quotations
apparently from
Dear Stanley.



0004

1 h - 45 m from North base of
Ngombo promontory to South side
shore E. 50 m + 1 - 15 shore E.
= 3 = 50 + 30 + 1 == 5
5+ 1 = 6 - 20 to Palilole


Note.
Saw a kite for the first
time this season on the
2d Sept 1866 on
10returning to Misinje
confluence
- two seemed
tired with journey
& were resting on a
Baobab tree


15{figure}


0005

No V.{No V.}



{figure}
5

Northern edge of Ngombo


0006

6th Septr 1866 start from
North side of Ngombo
promontory
which juts
into sea towards Senga
5(Rifu mt) about four miles
- is rather more at base -
Low & sandy - covered with
trees & a belt of Papyrus round
North - West & part of South
10edge - Rest or S E side has
high sandy dunes with trees
on it -          these are evidently
blown up by south winds
such as were blowing
15hard all day
and made
our long march along
shore very tiresome
We were 6 hours & 20
minutes
in reaching
20village Panthunda where
food was to be had


0007
{figure}

Passed Rt Lebesa about
1' W of it
.


5



7th Septr 1866. - 1 H - 15 -
pass over Lilole Rt at village
+ 50 m + 1 h = 3 hours
in all
to Chirumba's village on the
10South side of a Lagoon -
which Lake forms along
parallel with shore - all
mountain range covered with trees


{figure}
0008
{figure}


[                ]

{figure}
0009
{figure}

8th Septr 1866 march
from Pansongwa along
shore southwards 1 h - 25
5+ 1 h + 1 - 35 = 4 m + 30
4 h - 30
to Kandango's
Passed a great many
old sites of villages
surrounded with the
10favourite Euphorbias
& other trees - and
many skills lying
about - said to be
was by the Masininga
15an Ajawa tribe -
chief Mponda &

0010
Njelenje whom we
passed in our way
down - on Misinje
For slave trade - the
5men being killed
This depopulated a
very broad tract of
rich aluvial soil
between the Lake &
10mountains


9th Septr 1866
Sunday at Kandango's
Lat. 13° 57' 49" S
Muddy bottom here
15and all along shore
a good many shells
on shore while North
of Ngombo there
are none


0011
{figure}

Pattern on old Nyassa
pots - the large ones have
bare spaces as
5{figure}
        smaller ones shew
interleaving - (Herringbone)
{figure}
Others imitation baskets
10for holding fluids


{figure}
0012

March towards hills
then on reaching first
then turn southwards
and meet Lake - Pass
5two mountain torrents
which when swollen
bring down large trees
from the mountains
At present they are
10only ankle deep with
sandy bottoms and
from 60 to 80 yards broad
2 hours - + 1 h + 1 - 15 = 4 - 15
to Chéfu or Nchefu's


15

An immense population
swept off but I am
weary of the story
skulls = broken
pots = grindstones
20and the trees that
surrounded & gave shade
to the villages - the mounds

0013
& ridges for their grain -
Profuse vegetation now
covers all - It is getting
hot now 89° about midday

5Cotton spinning again
seen among Manganja


{figure}


From Chefu's village


0014
{figure}

        Mbwa in first
range Namezimo in
second - East of Nyassa
5& near South end --


11th Septr 1866
Leave Chefu's vil &
after 1 h - 15 rest at a

0015
mountain torrent called
Lotende - It brings down
very large trees in rainy
time
and they are all
5bruized as if knocked
against rocks in their
descent from the mountain
defiles where they grow
Only a few patches of
10green appear on the
higher range but the nearer
& lower is covered with
scraggy trees - 1 h - 10 m to
another torrent bed
15+ 1 = 3 h - 20 m + 10 = 3 h 30 m

to village Pamawawa
Headman poor but
presented a roll of salt
Fig tree in village thrown
20out butresses -


0016

12 Septr 1 h - 30 to stream
-let Nguena = 1 h to a
fine Rt by a village
= 2 h - 30 to vill.
of a
5headman with sore
eyes who persuaded me to
stop to give him medicine
It is on the streamlet
Pantoza Pangone


10

13th Septr 1866 - 1 h - 50 m
to strong brook Nkoru +
1 - 20 to edge of water at
Mount Gome
which
touches it = 3 - 10 We
15are now some three
miles
from the end of
the Lake and see it all
plainly - many hopes
disappointed here

0017
but all will come right
some day though I may
not live to see even the
commencement of better
5times - Weary of counting
the human remains
passed six in a group
yesterday - An Arab
party fled on hearing
10that we were coming
They have their complement
of slaves from S W of Lake
& had plenty of goats - We
get plenty of meal maize
15& cassava - dried fish
too - & salt of which we could
get none till lately {figure}
to Pamchocholo
Rivulet
and the
20village of Cherekalongwa
who recieved us very
jovially with beer

0018
and plenty of other food -
He says that Matak{ukat}a
Kabinga and Mponde are
the only chiefs who now
5let forays go against
the Manganja =


Two carriers promised
to come to Massangano
on ofeffluence of Lake &
10Shire for 5 cubits of
calico - but led us out
of our way & made two
very short crooked
marches then demanded
15payment of the whole
distance agreed on - took
two others and gave them
the payment agreed on
for the others though they
20came but one day -
As they will inform the
original pair no bad
effect will follow

0019
my insisting on the
fulfillment of the bargain


14th at Cherekalongwa,
Plenty of food for all
5remained & wrote Journal
cooked a senze for
us this morning
15th Sept- 1866
marched three hours
10South & Eastwards

then up the hills to
Mukate's who has a
large population about
him chiefly Waiyau
15as he himself is - Had
a long visit from him
the first day in a
good substantial house

0020
about 50 feet by 18 or 20
square
& strongly roofed
never saw European
before & everything is
5an immense curiosity
to him & his people - the
coursts of his women
cover a large space and
all the hills as far as
10we can see are crowned
with villages


16 Sept 1866 at Mukates
An Earthquake happened
here last year = It shook
15all the houses & everything
but they observed no
other effects - no hot
springs known -
Long discussion on
20the slave trade - the

0021
Arabs have told him
that our object in
capturing slaves was to
make them our own
5slaves and of our own
religion - This discussion
which Mukate often
tried to turn off with a
laugh is at least a
10protest against the whole
sale murders to which
the trade leads lodged
on his & many hearts -




15

    17 Septr 1866 - The
Earthquake happened twice
once near sunset - the
next time at night - It
was accompanied by
20noise and au{ll} the
fowls cackled = the
Manganja of Pamalombe

0022
felt it - They have a
tradition that they came
from the West or N.W -
their forefathers taught
5them to make nets &
canoes -


We marched 3 hours & 30
minutes
taking a
long roundabout
10from M{ukat}e's near
Mañgoche mountain
to avoid a marsh and
get to North end of Lakelet
Pamalombe
where we
15are to cross tomorrow -
might have gone to
Mosauka's but Mukate
said he had no people
there - those of his
20people who possessed
canoes lived here &
he sent us here


0023

18th Septr 1866 - We
embarked all in eight
canoes for which we
paid nine fathoms &
5they took us up ^ in 2 hours to the
head of Pamalombe
and then crossed over.
A fishing party took flight
at our appearance
10leaving some of their
fish behind them -
Walked on to their village
from which we can see
Zomba - Chikala Vale
15the mountains about
clearly - the open gap of
Chirwa and the
mountains on the E
of lower part of Lake


0024

People of Pima's village
suspicious of us desired
us to go on to Mponde's
We asked a hut to put
5our things in but they
practically refused by
saying the headman
was absent - We soon put
up a shed of cloth & wood
10sufficient to stow all
our things & allow me
ample room to sleep
on the bales -


Yesterday evening
15we sent for the chief
men and asked various
questions by way of
introducing a short
statement about the
20Reveleation we possess
they agreed that they

0025
came from the West or
West NorWest but say
their fathers told them
nothing about God or the
5future state - They only
heard them saying of such
a one who died "Mulungu
took him
" It is probable
that they & the Tanganyika
10& Zambesi people are one
& followed the course of
great waters going South
wards - Hence the repetition
of names of rivers - Hills
15& mountains -


no carvings on the rocks
or writings known to the
Manganja - never heard
of the Lake being higher
20than it rises    during the
rains annually - never

0026
heard of a book till we
came - What I said to
Mukatse though he tried
to turn it with a laugh was
5repeated to all the villages
in our way by guide






19 th When we started
this morning we came to
10a large body of people
making salt - They belong
chiefly to Mponda a
Machinga chief to whose
village we are going
15Hold along a plain
about W.N.W. to
Mponda's - 1h 40m
+ 30 = 2h-10m
        to vil
of Mponda


0027

Another Arab party hearing
yesterday of our approach
fled precipitately - no
chance of getting a letter
5sent to Zanzibar -
This is a large village or
town - Mponda is a
blustering sort of fellow
but my object in
10visiting him is to
enter a protest against the
slaving system which he
Mukate & Kabinga carry
on - The village is on
15a fertile plain with
many large trees on it -
He has cattle and a
great many people -
Machinga is their de{i}vision

0028
of the Waiyau - says
he knows me having
seen me in the boat
They are a strongly
5built race and
seem to cultivate
largely - Agriculture
is not the work of
slaves but of all
10from chief to lowest
subject - This chief
was out at his garden
when we arrived -
no one is ashamed
15to say that he works
in the field - found
some Arab looking
fellows here - they
had not heard of our
20approach I saluted

0029
them with "Salaam"
It is very hot now -
the ground burns like
fire After 12 oclock so
5we have to make short
marches as the men
cannot hold out
in long ones -




10

20 Sept 1866
Mponda having a child
ill begged me to remain
over today & give medicine
He wishes to have a well
15in his court yard and
believes that we can
make one - He is very
liberal with his food
and pombe - - One pot
20presented was 18
inches in diameter
& 26 high


0030
{figure}


{figure}


5{figure}


0031

21st Septr 1866 March
1 h & cross Ntemangokwe
again + 2 h - 10 + 1 h = 4 hr 10

to a brook ^ Likoche where we
5spend the night - Two
carriers came on a
short distance and
then wishing to turn
opened the bundles
10& paid themselves - the
Havildar sitting there
and looking on -




Pas{22nd} Sept 1866 - Pass
15another brook & then on
the hills 700 feet above
the Lake rest after 1 h 25 m
at Matimbwa a strong
one + 1 - 25 + 1 h = 3 - 50

20to another torrent ===

0032
+ 1 h - 10 m + 1 - 35 = 6 - 35
+ 25 = 7 hours 0 W & NW

to village on mountain
torrent running now
5Usangazi; and near
mountain Namasi




24 Sept 1866
1 - 25 to Marenga
10{figure}


0033

25th Sept. 1866
One hour to ^ East side hill of
Nyassa
to chief
Marenga who has a
5loathesome skin
disease and begged
hard for relief -
His town is very large
The people collected
10in great numbers &
I took occasion to tell
the chief's brother some
little about the Bible
& the future state - they
15said that their fathers
never told them aught
about the Soul but they
thought that all the
man rotted & came to
20nothing - What I said

0034
was nicely given by a
man who seemed to
have a gift that way
& all listened attentively
5when told that God
loved all & heard prayer
addressed to him =


On reaching Marenga
who is living at the
10sea side he came out
with about ten fine
women who spread
a mat then a cloth
on that - He clothed
15in a figured red silk
shawl walked painfully
ask me to stop a day
and he would send
my goods over the
20heel westwards in
canoes - He then
went to his house

0035
and I went in to examine
the case - He leaned on
the breast of one of the
fine women six of
5whom were now in
attendance - a loathesome
skin disease probably
syphilitic - Asked if
any of his wives had
10caught - Five had!!
but they were most
assiduous - Is it con-
-jugal affection or
position as queens -
15We must not enquire too
closely into motives in
any case of others but
pray that our own
may be purified - He
20was very loathesome
and they helped him

0036
to count the infection
not thinking that their
own fine smooth
light brown skins
5might soon be as
ugly as this nasty
black fellows who
was scratching him
self all over -- It
10is clearly contagious
He says that it was
known in the country
before Arabs came into
it - They gave them
15the small pox only -


0037

    26 Sept 1866
        An Arab passed yester-
day, his slaves going
by another way, and he
5told Musa that all the
country of Kasungu
was full of Mazitu
who had killed forty-
four Arabs & their people -
10all the Johanna men
said that they would
go no further - Musa
says - "No good country
that" I want to go
15back to Johanna to
see my father & mother
& child" I took him
to Marenga who said
that the disturbance
20in Kasung[ ]{u} had been

0038
caused by the Manganja
resenting Jumbe's
incroachments - He
brought the other Arabs
5& guns & they (the
Manganja) suffered
I explained to Musa
that we should not
go near Mazitu & if
10we heard of them we
should avoid them
Marenga said that there
were no Mazitu near
It was Manganja against
15Arabs - but when we
started all the Johanna
men walked off leaving
their goods lying on the
ground - put them
20into canoes & started
to go round the heel

0039
of Nyassa = the Mountains
of Kirk's range
look
very high on the other side
from that which we
5coast along -




27th Septr 1866 - went
right round the heel of
Nyassa or rather the
10bottom of it to Kremasusa
or Katosa as the Makololo
called him. got things
pretty wet on Western
side among breakers -
15slept about 3 miles
from landing place

& then went to 'M-
sangwa
to dry them
before going up to
20Kremasusa's - a
man taken off by a
crocodile last night

0040
had been drinking beer
& went in at night to
cool himself - lay
down & the beast seized
5him - The loud wail
of the women sounds
dolefully -


I have heard Dean #
Stanley
s
three sermons
10on God spake in sundry
places & divers manners
&c with great delight
some parts as that
which relates to the
15Future are very in-
spiriting


0041

28 Sept - 1866 = March
2 hours
W - to the Kremasusa's
village
on the stream
        where last I met
5him - very sultry -
{figure}


0042

29 th Septr - 1866 - We
found Kremasusa's
absent but he was
sent for and will
5come tomorrow - His
town much increased
but the Alola are selling
each other - another
Arab passed home-
10wards saying that all
his slaves had been
taken from him -
Musa's eyes stood
out
with fear and
15as for the Johanna
men whom he led
away they were all
thieves - They could
not be entrusted with
20flints in their guns
They stole & sold

0043
them - and they regularly
plundered their loads
When they remained behind
it was for one object
5only - plunder - and
Musa knew it all
for they shared the
dainties bought with
him - He was rather
10disgusted at being at
last obliged to bring
up his men & not
allow them to stay &
steal in the way - He
15always said - "I every
day tell Johanna men
not steal Drs things" -
When he saw them
buying & eating dainties
20he knew that they
were stolen fruits &
could have stopped it
had he chosen -


0044

1st Octr 1866 - We
spent Sunday at Kre-
-masusa
's village
, H{h}e
being absent - I am
5unwilling to leave without
seeing him & getting his
good word to the chief of
the Maravi - He was
sent for but wished
10me to come - get a
guzzle of beer & then
return here in his
company - This I did
not relish at all & there
15fore sent to say if he
did not come we should
move off - A great
deal of food is brought
to us & we have to refuse
20to recieve it as we
cannot carry it -


0045

Ngalaňanza name
of country having gold
NW of Babisa


10 A. M. Kremasusa
5came just now from
his beer drinking
bout - He was anxious
that I should see another
village which he now
10has from following
my advice not to
sell his people - He
presented a fat ram
& much pombe -
15was with me most of
the day - speaks sensibly
but I fear the slave
traders temptations
are very strong


0046

2d Octr 1866
a basket ^ of beer 18 in high
and 15 in. in diameter

was brought by
5Msusa for us to
drink it all - It
had great effect on
himself for he
talked incessantly
10afterwards = no
business was done -
though he took us to
a shady tree in the
forest behind the village
15under which on a
smoothed spot his
serious business is
done


0047

3d Octr 1866 -
Msusa came early & sober
says he wishes the pay of
his people beforehand
5as they will bring nothing
back to him - When they
send to buy ivory they
give the price to the Arabs
and they purchase for
10them -        This, if true, shews
a state of distrust very
remarkable -


A woman turned up
here who says that she is
15Chuma's father's sister
Chuma is eager to give
her a present - It shews
a most forgiving dis-
-position to reward those
20who were art & part in
selling them - When
taken very young they
knew nothing of the
evils they have escaped


0048

Msusa has sent for
Babisa who acknow
ledge his authority to
go with us to Unambru
5He thinks that his
own people would
run away & leave
us in the road -
Meanwhile he over
10stocks us with food
& pombe


4th The Mobisa man
sent for came and
was so ignorant of
15the country that I
declined his services
and asked Msusa to
give me men to
go on to the first
20Maravi village


0049

This delay is vexatious
though Msusa does
all he can to make it
pleasant for us = some
5of the men wear their
hair {figure} in great
masses one is
in shape like a cocked
hat - The pounding of
10corn by the women
is very hard work
yet it is going on
incessantly -


5th Octr 1866 -
15The chief came as usual
with an immense basket
of beer for us - We
had made preparations
for marching and
20he did not like this

0050
but I explained that
the people whom he
trusted to did not acknow
-ledge his authority &
5would not go - They
set very light by his
orders - Simon heard
two words Mazitu &
"lipololo" and conjured
10up all manner of
evils thereupon - They
would catch him - &
kill him - Khambiri
was a very bad chief
15in front!! all shewing
the most egregious
cowardice and chicken
-heartedness = He
magnifies every diffi-
20culty & his power
of inventing excuses
is extraordinary


0051

The headman tried to get
men but they are afraid
of some retaliation for
old quarrels & refused
5He says he will go
tomorrow himself
with his wives if his
men wont - I am his
friend and he will not
10see me at a stand
still - He says that
there is no danger for
men carrying loads -
Khambuiri's people
15went I suspect as a
marauding party
and were beaten off
this gave cause of fear
to some of my people


0052
{figure}


6th Octr - 1866 -
5March 3 h - 10 m North
to a village on a Rt
called Godedze where
we sleep - it being
very hot through the
10day
- Kremasusa
behaves like a

0053
king - His strapping
wives came to carry &
shame his people (which
they did), but men
5enough ^ soon came to carry
both the extra loads &
all the rest - One wife
carried beer another
meal and as soon as
10we arrived cooking
commenced - Porridge
& roasted goats flesh
made a decent meal
Hooping cough heard in
15village - the chief
delights to shew me as
his friend and he
has been most liberal
with food & drink
20The native beer or

0054
pombe requires a
strong digestion but
many chiefs live on
it entirely - a little
5meat only varies
the diet - It is very
fattening & the queens
use it to make
themselves stout


10

7th Octr - 1866 - at
a disagreable village -
The Waiyau who
are spread about
come in an impudent
15way as they are
accustomed to do
with slave traders -
enter the hut & handle
things if not ejected

0055
or, shut out - The Manganja
being in their power
are more civil - though
few in number the
5Waiyau are the dominant
race - and possess
guns = The Manganja
trust to their old bows
and arrows - the
10Waiyau all ask for
gun medicine - I suppose
the Arabs drive a trade
in this deception -
A man from Tapem -
15- beje
who formerly
treated us kindly in
giving fish when we
visited - the whole haul
of his net - came with
20four fowls as a present


0056

30 m base hill 28 33 = 27.65 =
noon + 30 m + up hill 1h
26.5 at 2 fell 80° Tapiri
pass
+ 15 m to first water
52H - 15 = 3 P.M. 26.65 = 80°
at village on top 5 PM
25.7 = 74° = 3 hrs15m =

came up Kirk's
range
making ^ altitude 2200 feet
10in the ascent - The
pass is well chosen
& is called Tapiri
The men employed as
carriers did well &
15then sang & clapped
their hands till one
AM when I advised
them to go to sleep


Hills sparsely covered
20with trees but soil

0057
fertile and people raise
great crops of sorghum -
The Nyassa side of Range
depopulated by Waiyau
5Met two men & a boy
out hunting with a
dog & trap {figure}
This is laid in the run
of some small animal
10& when chased by the dog
it runs into it - It is
of split bamboo and
has prongs of the same
pointing inwards to
15prevent it coming out
again - they were very
much alarmed on
seeing us but we assured
them of our peaceable
20intentions & they took
us on to their village
where an old man was

0058
spinning Buaze to
make cloth of it - I
found that the Waiyau
& Maravi were mutually
5a friend of each other
Kremasusa came to
the bottom of range &
his people persuaded
him without much
10difficulty to go no further
He shewed all along
abundant hospitality
the last act being an
offer of a pot of beer
15in parting - I paid his
wives for their work
and came on with
Manganja carriers as
mentioned


0059
{figure}         {figure}


{figure}
0060

8th Octr 1866 - Head
man very hospitable -
Felt a shock of an earth
-quake this last month
-
5no hot fountains
known - wishes
medicine against war
A village close by was
hectored by some Waiyau
10and went & stole the
wife & children of the
man we first met -


{figure}
0061

9th carriers came in
good time but we had
to wait till they had
taken breakfast &
5it is but Justice to say
that they gave us a
good one too


March 45 m to the top of
a hill on which Gombwa's
10village
is situated - Here
Barometer showed 25.28
the chief came and said
that I ought to sleep
here because he had
15sent for all his people
to see me and hear the
words of peace from
myself - I explained
that I had remained
20long below & now wished

0062
to get on - Had carriers
who expected to be paid
He replied that they
would return tomorrow


5{figure}

                                Kanthunda
                                Nthunda to
                                climb                                 



                                Kaputi
10                                Mts 3 days to
                                N of Phunzi


0063
{figure}


10th Octr 1866 - March
1 h - 5 N & then SW.
to a
5sepulchral Grove one
tree called Bokonto seen
no where else {figure}
+ 1 h to Levise a fine
mountain torrent flowing
10to Lake N of where we
ascended + 1 h = 3 hours
+ 30 + 30 == 4 hours

Fine country lying in
long slopes with run
15ning streams at the
junction of two slopes

0064
Some parts destitute of
trees or clumps only on
ridges - or around villages
the cultivated spots so
5large & regular they
look like fields in
Scotland - They hoe
deep - Heap up soil
or grass & burn it - the
10slow fire leaves most
of the products of
combustion in the
covering soil - The
trees shooting forth
15bush leaves - crimson
prevails & it is very
beautiful especially
with transmitted light
some are orange
20red - some blood
red - some a dirty

0065
yellow - ^ some silvery crimson is
the prevailing colour
the Manganja are in
their primitive state
5they are great agricultur
-ists - raise large crops
and are liberal with
their food - We give
a cloth to the head
10man of the village where
we sleep - get a good
hut - a supper enough
for all our party
and breakfast before
15starting - a bag of
flour we brought
cannot be got rid of
by our own men
eating it - Men are
20clothed chiefly with

0066
goat skins - the women
with buaze sacking
or cotton. Men are
seen everywhere spinning
5or weaving these articles
The hair of the young
men is often cultivated
on one side of the head
and comes down on
10the shoulders in thin
ringlets - The air is
very fine & agreeable

here where we are
upwards of 4000 ft
15above the sea
- The
mountains rise like
the peaks from the
comparatively level
space around some
202000 feet and are

0067
very jagged - Mulundini
from different points
shews as if a man's
head were lying on its
5back face up - The
population very large
many are said to have
fled from the East side
of Nyassa - advised
10union - & feeling as one
family but they care
not for each other -
some Waiyau picked a
quarrel with a village
15close to Mpakapala &
the villages crossed the
valley & took the wife
& child of the first man
we met and gave them
20to appease the Waiyau
but no one interfered

0068
his neighbours felt
that they were not
hurt - selfishness
will lead to their des-
5-truction - when Gombwa
drove of Khambuiri's
people the villagers
West of him fled &
did not come to
10help him.


We had a long talk
with Gombwa - he
sent for his people
& asked me to repeat
15what I said in the
morning - told him
of the relationship of
all to the one Father
the sin of selling his
20children - of the

0069
Bible - of Future state
where all will be judged
advised Union to
expel enemies who
5came first as slave
traders - that was the
beginning of war which
made the country a
wilderness


10

Kawa was with us
early this morning
and he & his men
came on to Chitimba
village
and did us
15good by his account
of us - But Kangkomba
schemed with Kulu
to keep us a day -
some cannot help
20being mean as some
are prone to generosity


0070


11thOctr 1866



a very cold morning
5an East wind 59°

& a heavy bank of
clouds - mere - the
huts are made very
close - not a chink of
10the roof admits light
the lower part of it is
even plastered inside
and air can come
in only by the door
15This shews too how
scarce fire wood is
low bushes prevail
more than trees - &
Masuka{o}a is the most
20common


0071

a seat seen in house
of {figure} Kulu
a Maravi
or Manganja
5cut out of a single
block of wood - 2 ½
feet long
& 1 ½ high
-
a bow of bamboo
was measured &
10found to be 6 ft 4 in
along the bow string
The seat was made
by the Mkweza S- of
this -


15

12 Oct r 1866 March
1 h - 5 Westerly by South
+ 30 + 1 - 10 = 2 - 45 + 40
+ 40 = 3 - 25 + 50 = 4 ^ + 60 1{5}5


0072
{figure}

Wazopa Morungo a
hill on which provisions
are stored - & a cow
5which is supposed to
intimate when war
is coming - sides nearly
perpendicular but
there is a path up
10known to these Kanthang
or climbers - the Maravi
are below at [      ]


0073
{figure}


{figure}
{figure}
0074

12 Octr 1866 march
4 hr - 55 m
to a village on
the Western base of
Mount Phunze
5country full of people
who live in peace &
plenty & never travel
They have fine straight
limbs rather feminine
1081° at 3 PM
71 at sunset


{figure}

Plains at 9 AM
1525.7 =78°


0075

13th March 1 h - 25 &
cross Leuenga flow
Southwards into Lake
+ 35 m + 45 m + 35 - 3 20
5to Kauma's village


villages scarcely ½ mile
distant from each other

in all directions with
10clumps of trees around
each the rest of the
country nearly bare of
trees but covered with
grass where not cultivated
15all engaged in hoeing
In marshy places on
shopes mounds 3 feet
high are made - the man
takes up his hoe ful &
20then passes it with left
[      ] to mound

0076
trees left [            ]
places of sepulture -
and those round villages
are partly for shade &
5partly for privacy from
motives of decency -
We seem to have left
the mountains behind
at Phunze - [      ]
10it is plain - with [      ]
lines of gentle [      ]
& low hills which [      ]
comparison [            ]
left are men [      ]
15the rivulets fall into
each other & then into
the Lake

0077
Kauma a tall thin man
with a bald head told us
that some of his people
had lately returned from
5the Babisa country
[      ] weary & would give
[      ] information about the
[      ] in front - no Arabs
[      ] come here - they
10[      ] unite against the
[      ] - ?


Kauma says that his
people are partly Ka-
unda & partly Chipeta -
15[      ] means the
[      ] such as we are
[      ] upon - He has
[      ] but never milks
[      ] very many
20people all around


0078

{figure}




14th Octr 1866 - We
spend Sunday at
5Kauma's large
village
- He hospitable
gave a goat & plenty
of porridge

0079
Mapne people onn North
of Kauma & from
Zomba 2 days to
Undi
- then Mishu
5chiriza N.# Chindondo
- has gold - & there
the Portuguese formerly
went - They called it
Machinga which
10means hills only -




15th Octr March
1 h - 10 + 1 h - 15 + 1 - 5 =
3 h - 2{3}0 + 30 = 4 hours

15We rested at a village
Pacho^ ma and the headman
offered a goat & beer
but I declined as my
men allowed a fine

0080
goat given by Kauma
to run away back -
Kauma's men wish
to return from the
5village where we sleep
because a woman
died this morning as
we started - they say if
she had expired before
10we came away not
a man would have
left the village -


The villages are very
numerous - many are
15less than half a mile
apart
and few more
than one mile from
some other


0081

Molomba is village where
we sleep on night of 15th
Octr
Headman poor
but very liberal giving
5a goat & supper & break-
-fast - cross Chiky{u}yo
near his village - goes
N & into Lake - another
headman named
10Chikala brought beer
& a fowl in morning
asked him to go with
us to Mironga as it
is important to get
15the good report such
even for their own
credit give & it is not
expensive - See Mt
Ngalla
in North


0082

march one hour & 10 m
& take bearings of Mts
1 h 10 m + 15 to Mironga
+ 30 + 15 = 2 - 10 + 30 =
52 - 40 to Chipanga


We passed Mironga
because the march
was so short & went
on to Chipanga - Here
10the headman is a
miserable looking fellow
Hemp effects in his
face & leprosy in his
feet - fled with most
15of his people when we
came - Then kept us
a long time waiting &
gave a miserable
hut which we refuse

0083
and got a better one -
Chikala protesting vigor-
ously & going through the
village asking everyone
5for a larger hut - gave
him 3 cubits for his
services & parted good
friends -


Clouds now gathering
10for next months rains

We hope to reach the
town of Zomba tomorrow
which is in a low{ran}ge
of low hills due West
15of us - The Portuguese
were still further West
in going to Kazembe -
We see Mt Ngalla
in the North now 20°
20Mag - E -


0084
{figure}


5

17 Octr 1866 - March
1 - 15 to smithy + 30 m
+ 40
to ridge overlooking
valley E of Range + 25
2 - 50 in all - It is
10very difficult to
travel - the soil dry
& hard but water
occurs often enoug

0085
Many foundries at
work - they are
usually planted on
a little knoll and
5have a very high
hut over them - one
we looked at the man
was drawing off
slag from the metal
10the ore was in sand
& seemed the n{b}lack
oxide - but in
fine grains - We
passed five yester
15day & today - the
last headman did
better than we
expected


0086

Theresa's village is
planted on the edge of
the slope which leads
down to the valley of
5the Adiampwe Rr
beyond which lies the
range Dzala nyama
here it is fine white
mica schist dipping
10Eastwards - People
very poor looking but
well fed - clothing scarce
they plant little or no
cotton & trust to Buaze
15& goatskins instead
We are shaded by fine
specimens of the Ficus
Indica - Headman
much pleased with
20a few things given


0087
{figure}


18th Octr 1866 March
from Theresa's village
51 h - 15 m + 30 to Kaveta
vil.
+ 45 m to smiths
+ 1 h
to Kisumpi = 3.25

found him the picture of
Sir Colin Campbell but
10he desired us to go & sleep at
another village - He is para
mount but very poor


0088

19th March West 1 h - 5
+ 35 + 50 = 2 35

to Diampwe a fine
flowing stream of 5 yds
5which goes into the
Lintipe- It rises at
Ndomo near Zobwe -
2 ½ hours took us to
Chitokola's village -
10We passed the sepulchral
grave of Kissumpi
& a headman whom
we got to go with us said
"Kissumpi's forefathers
15sleep there" the first
time I have heard "sleep"
applied by these people
to state of the dead - I
suspect that Kissumpi
20is weak minded and has
thus lost his influence


0089

Women generally are
very plain - They have
very few beads - the
ornaments are lines
5made in the skin - A
common form here
is two wavy lines on
the back & breast
{figure}
10(19) small pox been here
at Chitokola's vil.






20th Octr 1866 - The
headman absent
15on some milando
business - Take Ast
observations and
rest the men


0090

Chitikola's place is
called Paritala
He came in the evening
an elderly man with
5a{A}ssyrian nose - gave
us some beer - One
of the wonders told
of us in every village
is that we sleep
10without fire - the
men having blankets
dont need it as all
these people do - It
being cold = 64º - 60º


15



22d Oct 1866 March W N W
1 h cross Lilongwe Rt &
+ 1 - 10 + 1 h = 3 h - 10 m to
vil. Mashumba

20Chikuta - the headman
only one who begged


0091
[2 Oct] Temp 6 AM ---- 60°
9 AM ---- 81°
10 Do ---- 86.5°
11 ------ 90°
5 12 ------ 93°
{figure}
cloaked out 1            85°
Do 2 ---- 90°
3 ---- 92
104 ---- 90
5            87
{Mashumba - nyama}
6            80



15

Mapuio N-W- of
Zomba = Kalolo is
Kanthunda - 3 days or 2
(Makosa)




201. Mkanga ^ #2 Chifunga = 3 Mtumbwe other side
4 Lekune - 5 Mapuio
Kiss 2 Chokera - Nsiko = Chikouo



PamNoma - Lekune
25Chindundu is one
day W of Zomba's
there the gold is found



0092

23 Octr 1866 march 33
& cross the Chiniambo coming
from Zalanyama & flowing
East to Mirongwe & thence
5into the Lintipe -







Hooping cough at Lake
6th Octr again at
10Phunze 12 Oct - again
10 miles W of Kauma
15th Octr 1866




small pox at Paritala
15on 20th Oct




Chipanga - chiko
Mukamanga - Rongwe




20Zobwe {figure} 220{figure}
miles 15 Tsamañombe # 285° - 261°
10 Zalanyama 195 - 20
# mosozi - Neola N


0093

+ 40 m + 40 = 2 - 15 + 30 to five
furnaces - Mpandas vil.
Forest near hills - Mochenga
Masuka & bark cloth tree
5chiefly - Elephants & buffaloes
very abundant - woody
ridge & oozing valley as in
Londa


24th Oct meet village flying
10from Mazitu - See Elands Ele
-phants - wild hog & Hartebeests
shoot one (of latter - {figure}







From Levenga Rr back to
15Phunze Mtn 85° - 76° 3 mile
{figure}
Dedza 20 miles 89° 95°
Domwe 10 miles 130' 140°
Mpondwe 12 miles 145 - 150°
Changone 10 miles 44° - 37°
20Birzinyongwe 5 miles - 5 - 113°
Ulazo 7 miles 70

0094

Ascent from Lake
Dip of rocks about 5° to
N
or perpendicular
strike E & W -


5

at Levise Rr - melted
Gneiss Dip slightly West
strike Due N & E -


At Phunze fine
grained mica schist
10caps the general
gneiss & syenite






hill at End of Zalanyama hill{Range}
{figure} 175° from beyond Chikuta
15{figure} Gap 205°


0095

Kangomba = at Pa-
-chitimba
one day
distant from Kawa

at Mpalapala the
5first village we came
to -




chata ^ 298° W of chilimba mile 8
Jongune E - 320 - 6 miles
10{figure} Debga 160 from Chitimbe mi 6
Mulundini 88° 8 miles
Chincherere 211° 6 miles
is close to
Ulazo

15

{figure} {figure}
0096

our own upmost of Above
can even attain to. A α knot


The events of the christian
Dispensation were planted
5on the very centre of human
hopes and fears -


the Bible has a hopeful
victorious triumphant
character - the power of
10the future = No Golden
age lies like that of the
Jews, not in the past,
their greatest Hero their
founders latest descendant


15

chavla name of poison
of arrows used on the
Lake Nyassa by the
Manganja


0097

Grace & Truth = Grace that
is, love, sympathy, eager
-ness to shew favour -
forgiveness, mercy.


5

Truth - that is Truthfulness
sincerity, reality, justice.
In Christ was the most
gracious tenderness;
In Christ the most
10fearless truth - Do Do


The sacred volume &
especially the four gospels
unfolds the Deity - It
shews us him who
15dwelleth in light which
no man can approach
directing, gaurding &
assisting us, each hour
and moment, with
20infinitely more vigilant
& exquisite care than


0098

expectation that preceded
him - Jesus of Nazareth
was on the most super
-ficial no less than on the
5deepest view we take of
h{H}is coming, the greatest
name, the most extra-
-ordinary power, that has
ever crossed the stage
10of History - His greatness
consisted not in out-
ward power, but pre
-cisely in those qualities
in which from first to
15last ^ the prophets had laid the utmost
stress -- Justice & love,
goodness & truth.


Dr Stanley sermon




20
0099

"again & again the vista
is closed by h{H}is person,
His character, His reign -#
^ A conqueror but His weapons only those
5recognized by the Prophets
- by justice - mercy -
truth & goodness, - by
suffering, endurance -
by identification of
10Himself with the joys -
the sufferings of His
nation, by opening
a wider sympathy
to the whole human
15race than had ever
been opened before xxx
there did arise out of
this nation ^ by universal consent a character
as unparalleled as the


0100

Kassumbu a chief of
Maravi at Dedza all
along that country west
wards Manganja live
5in peace & plenty -
the chief Katosa was so
named by the Makololo
his real name being
Kiemasusa


10

Kuzuri = a fish that
comes down stream
in flood - (Glanis Siluris)




Toku a preparation
15of grain which brings
out all its sweetness -
is very refreshing
in travelling


0101

Tangare = a bean which
requires to be boiled three
times or with three waters
then it is pounded fine
5and the basket is taken
to the river & water allowed
to percolate through it
all - apparently to extract
poison - After first water
10the skin is removed - If
eaten without this it
causes intoxication but
not death - twice cooking
leaves the intoxicating
15property in it - It grows
all over a tree when planted
near it -


Gwingwe{i}za another
bean with white mark
20on it - Easily Cooked


0102

Zomba from upper part
of Pamalombe         196
-- Likala                       178
Kisu or Njongone    206˚
5Mangoche                  80˚
chidanganya           100
Domondo                 100 Numgha


{figure}
0103

Full grown she Hippo-
-potamus - 10 feet 9 inches
from end of snout to tip
of tail = 4 ft 9 inches
5high at withers


{figure}
0104

names - "King [            ]
cannot find [      ]
"Manemba" point to
Tamoembe - or Moembe
5Mataka
's town
and
district - "Makawa" may
be Mataka




Saw the skin of a
10Phenembe & head & tail
cut off - skinned by a cut
up the back & spread out
twelve inches of body
with a small portion of
15neck & ten inches of
breadth at belly
- name
at Nyassa Sakata






16th
2018
Septr
1866
Mukate's village 28{7}.5
Shores of Pamalombe 28.3
     air 70˚ - & 80 -




0105

[      ] nearly giving up
in despair of recognizing
the spot ^ at which Dr Roscher
first saw Lake Nyassa
5I found it in Leséfa
the é with the accent over
it sounding like e in our
word, set. It is rather
difficult to extract
10"Nusseewa" out of Leséfa
but the Waiyau pro-
-nounce it Loséwa --
the Arabs Lusséwa &
the servant of Roscher
15mistook the L & the é
& hence "Nusseewa"-
In conformation of
Leséfa being the spot
Mangkaka is the
20chief ("Makawa") &
then there seems a
confusion of chiefs


0106

Suzi 3 cubits - 8 th [   ]tr 1866
James 2 cubits [  ]




Mabruke 2 ½ cubits


5

Musa 2 fathoms -
Do - one piece 24 yds un-
accounted for -
Do one piece of Moleskin
10stolen & sold by Musa at
Mataka's = 4 fathoms
1 gun 5 dollars - one
Government sword -




0107

7[  ] Septr 1866 - Panthumda
Ch[   ]a 1 cubit going back for
Pistol = 1 cubit 23 Sept


14 2 fathoms to Musa


5

18 Sept, Sakombo begins again
Abraham 23 Septr 1 cubit


22d Sept - Sakombo
remained behind & 2
had to pay 2 ½ cubits -
10next day sat down
at once {a}nd ate - gave
off his load to a stranger
not to be allowed to
carry ..


15

#All Johanna men
left on 26 Septr 1866




Paid up to 8th Octr for
20Simons bed carrying
37 cubits - Gardner
J [      ] 3 cubits


0108

Rivers or rather
rivulets flowing into
East side of Nyassa
- less than Misinje which
5is 40 yds wide at confluence
+ larger than Do.


North End      - 15 - Magwelu at N End
14 - Mkolo
13 + Loangwa
1012 + Chifumolo - canoe
11 - Bweka
10 + Kisanga
9 - Chia
8 - Fubwe
157 + Musumba
6 - Nchamanje
5 - Leluka
4 - Leséfa = Loséwa
        coventry Longoya =
20        Mangkaka = chief

3 - Loangwa
2 = Misinje

South End 1. Lebejoi
                        Lilole


0109
[                ]



Oct 23 1866 Specimen day
5-30 AM    68˚
56        -      70˚
7        -      72˚
8        -      75˚
9        -      81˚
10      -      82˚
1011      --      85˚
12      --      90˚
2 chords from E 85˚
3                               87˚ 2






15

29th Noon = surface
of ground in sun 140˚
air in shade of hut
102 - Wet bulb 74˚


0110
0111
{figure}
0112
0113